Jardin – Cowboys and sombreros in Colombia

March 21, 2022

Colombie

TRANSPORTS

Medellin- Jardin

3 hours by bus with the company Rapido Ochoa - 32000 COP (7 euros)

Infos bus, cliquez ici

That day, I left my hostel in a rush, Uber could not find me a driver to reach the South Terminal. Go for a taxi but it is the rush hour, there is a lot of traffic. It is anxiety because if I miss this bus, the next one is at 1 p.m. No desire to squat the terminal with the luggage all morning. During the trip, the driver explains to me that here too (as in Honduras) the schools have been closed for 2 years. Students follow lessons on their phones. Unbelievable ! I arrive 5 mins before the departure of the bus. I run like a rabbit but the terminal is big. I randomly ask a lady who directs me illico. I buy my ticket at the last minute phew! I catch my bus in extremis. The charming driver, with a “Mi Amor” gives me the time to go buy water and a coffee. This is funny this linguistic habit of sticking “mi Amor” at every end of a sentence and with everyone. Women, men, everyone slips this pretty word everywhere. Reminds me of England doing the same thing. Imagine in France, saying my love to the neighbour, to the customer, at the checkout...😂. The journey passes quickly. The bus crosses the coffee valley. The landscapes are magnificent. I feast my nose glued to the window.

JARDIN

Jardín is a small village still quite unknown nestled in the hollow of the coffee valley, in lush vegetation. Here, time has stopped. This is the cowboy country who moves on horseback in the cobbled streets, with the whole panoply: sombrero, poncho, machete in the belt, boots. It is not uncommon to see horses, heads in the bar, buttocks outside, waiting for their owner drinking a beer. This exotic place, full of charm, has kept its soul and its authenticity over time. This village captures you and seduces you with its peaceful, friendly atmosphere in this setting where nature and the songs of birds are heard. All around, there is no shortage of activities to do. Hiking lovers are delighted. Jeeps, chivas (colourful solid wooden buses), horses are ready to take you wherever you want. This is the promise of constant happiness !

What to do in Jardin ?

Visit of the village: Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, Jardin de Rocas
Waterfall Del Amor and Charco Corazon
Hike to the 7 waterfalls: El Salto del Angel, the Cueva de los Guacharos...
Cristo del Rey Hike
Cave of Splendor
Garrucha cable car
Horseback Riding Waterfall Chorro Blanco
Visit a coffee plantation
Canyoning, paragliding, bird watching tours, Spanish lessons, visit to an artisanal panela factory

Click on a photo to start the slideshow

Visite du village

I discover this village tinged with red, green, yellow, blue, with a smile on my face. My god I am good here. The main square, adorned with its traditional church, is the gathering place where small markets, cafes, bars, restaurants enliven daily life. Every day the colored chairs are besieged. Cowboys roam the streets, the click of their horses' hooves announcing their passing. Everyone drinks a good tinto (small coffee in Colombia) or a good beer; It is very cinematic.

The local economy is mainly based on coffee and banana plantations as well as thebreeding..

Basilica of the Immaculate Conception. Built in a neo-Gothic style, as beautiful inside as it is outside, it dominates the whole place.

Jardin de Rocas. The Roosters of the Rock of the Andes are truly extraordinary birds that can be admired in Colombia or Peru. Strangely, they gather every day at the same time in the garden of this resident of the village. It opens its doors from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m, the times when these specimens arrive. You can observe them at your leisure as well as other species present for the moment. Admission 10,000 COP (2.50 euros). Really to do !

Waterfall Del Amor

La Herrera is a small path lined with flowers that leads to The Waterfall Del Amor and Charco Corazon. I go for this little walk that only takes about twenty minutes. I enjoy the place a bit when I decide to explore higher. So I continue my path really randomly. Sebastian, who lives a little higher, passes with his motorcycle, takes me for a local, stops and offers to drop me off if necessary. Go find out why I answered yes. No idea. I cannot see the guy's face hidden behind his helmet, but my spontaneous answer is yes. On the way, we discuss and strangely, we have lots of things to say to each other. He has his carpentry in the village and goes up to the Tiny House, which he has just built, to continue the work inside. At this word, I get passionate, ask him many questions. Faced with such enthusiasm, he naturally offers me to come and see it. But Absolutely !!! Some will say to themselves, "oh la la she's crazy, it's dangerous". Well no, I trust my instincts. So he makes me very proud to visit his pretty home. After an endless discussion and several hours, he finally drops me off in the village and offers me a hike for the next day. Yes-again ! Let's go!

Click on a photo to start the slideshow

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

: Los Guacharos Jardin

Hike to 7 waterfalls

Sebastian is local and grew up in the jungle. He suggests that I do this hike off the beaten track. I trust him and do not ask any questions. So here we go early in the morning to do, what will be for me, the course of Mike Horn😂. We follow a path in dense vegetation, cross rivers, go down and up while clinging to tree roots, ropes or other... And yes! Some sections are very steep and slippery. In short ! Hyper physical hours that I did not expect. It is therefore equipped with a bottle of water, a biscuit and dressed in shorts and a t-shirt that I make this journey. Nothing so ! This boy never ceases to amaze me. In summary, this is a 7-hour hike that allows you to discover magnificent canyons and fabulous waterfalls little known to the general public. This hike is difficult and frankly, not accessible to everyone. Thank goodness he brought fresh and dried fruit. I throw myself on it like a voracious so hungry I am. He had the good idea to also bring a k-way. Total happiness ! Summary of the races: without wanting to, I did it and so much the better because it is really worth it. In the end, I had a fantastic day during which I was able to test my limits once again. I measure my luck.

This adventure allowed me to see in particular 2 sites well known to the locals:
• El Salto del Angel
• La Cueva de los Guacharos

Some agencies in the village offer this hike. The course will be different but the result will be the same.

Cristo del Rey Hike

This mirador offers a breathtaking view of Jardin. There is a restaurant here that offers very good grilled meats and patacones (a dish made from flattened and fried pieces of green plantain).

There are 3 options to get to Cristo Rey:

- Calle 11 con Carrera 2, you have to follow a fairly steep path. Be wary as it can be muddy if it has rained recently. It takes 1 hour. This is the route I chose because it is near my hostel.
- Follow the Salada trail then turn left. It is easier but longer. Count 1h30. On the right, the path leads to the Cascada La Escalera.
- Too tired ? A tuk-tuk can drop you off for around 15,000 COP (3.50 euros).

Click on a photo to start the slideshow

: Mirador Cristo Rey Jardin

: Mirador Cristo Rey Jardin

: Mirador Cristo Rey Jardin

: Mirador Cristo Rey Jardin

: Mirador Cristo Rey Jardin

: Mirador Cristo Rey Jardin

: Mirador Cristo Rey Jardin

: Mirador Cristo Rey Jardin

: Mirador Cristo Rey Jardin

Also to do

The famous Cave of Splendor. Price: 20000 COP (5 euros)
It is the most popular tourist visit of Jardin. Under the effect of erosion, a powerful waterfall crosses a rocky ceiling offering a magnificent spectacle, which is even more so when illuminated by the rays of the sun. You can go there by bus or jeep with an agency. I advise you not to do it on foot. The hike is not worth it and the cave is very difficult to find. The property belongs to an individual. At the entrance, they form groups of 20-30 people. Given the number of visitors, you can stay only 30 mins and not alone. In short ! It is not my cup of tea. So I did not go there. The information that I am giving you is the feedback that I had in the village.
La Garrucha cable car.. Price : 7000 COP (1,50 euros).
The Garrucha is a small cable car that operates from 9:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. It can be taken from Charco Corazon. It offers superb views of Jardin and its surroundings, including banana and coffee plantations.
Horseback riding to Chorro Blanco.It is one of Jardin's favorite activities. A 6h30 walk in the heart of the Andean forest and coffee plantations. This leads, after a short walk, to a fabulous waterfall of Chorro Blanco hidden in the hollow of the vegetation
Visit a coffee plantation. As everyone knows, Colombia is one of the largest producers and exporters of coffee in the world. The quality of its coffee is well established. You can also do a tasting.
Canyoning in the waterfalls of La Escalera. This is divided into 18 smaller ones. It is possible to abseil part of it.
Paragliding, bird watching tours, Spanish lessons, visit to an artisanal panela factory...

Housing

- Hostel Candileja -

To book click here

Booked on Booking for 6 dollars a night, I have a bed in a dormitory of 4 with bathroom, dedicated to women. Simple but very comfortable. The boss is super nice, you quickly feel at home. The weekend being a holiday, he tells me that it is full after the 2 nights I have reserved. Whoops ! Me who wanted to extend. As a result, he offers me to keep me a bed in a new establishment that he is finishing up 1km from the village. He explains to me that everything is not completely finished but that the essential is there. The city is full anyway so yes it is perfect. I do not have time to go to visit, I am going on a hike. So I trust him. I leave him my luggage. I will migrate when I get back tonight. That is the atmosphere at Candileja ahaha. I like.

After my hike with Sebastian, I return to the hostel as planned. I collect my things to migrate to my new home. I take a tuktuk. Seb follows me. I discover this new place planted in the middle of nature. The dream ! The owner, too adorable, kept the big bed for me in the dormitory planned for 5. We are 2 so everything is fine. I am going around when I come across a group at the table partying. And who do I find there? Aaron, a 25 year old German boy who slept in the bed above mine in Cartagena. I then remember the fit of giggles I had with him. Her box spring and mattress were dramatically ruined. It looked like he was sleeping in a boat. Too happy to meet again, he invites me to join them. A good shower and here I am ending my crazy day drinking and laughing in great company. That is also the trip: many surprises of all kinds.

Bars & Restos

Here are some addresses on which I had a crush

Bella Italia

Italian restaurant ideally located, next to the basilica in the main square. Friendly service, pleasant terrace, delicious wine but above all pizzas to die for. What more could you ask for ?

Cafe Macanas

Very well-known establishment in the city. A must for drinking excellent coffee in a pretty flowery patio. The place is cozy and offers vegan and vegetarian options.

Hostel y Cafe Legado

I had a great breakfast there. Everything is fresh, homemade, good but above all this couple is adorable. They bend over backwards to you, do their job with heart. These people touched me a lot and fully deserve that we frequent their establishment. I had an unforgettable time there

Assessment

As soon as I arrived, I was seduced by the atmosphere created by this town. Quiet place, stuck in the past, with a multitude of activities that bring delight and wonder to everyday life. It is without a doubt one of my favorite places in this surprising country that is Colombia. But for now, I still have a lot of things left that I would like to see, including the no less famous Cocora Valley, which has the tallest palm trees in the world. So I am back on the road.

Next destination: Salento- Colombia.