Envie d'une lecture au coin du feu ? J'ai la...
Lire l'articlePleasant climate although this city has a reputation of cold city due to the winter colds because of its altitude. The hot season is from mid-February to September. The rainiest months are June and September. From that side, I would have been spoiled according to the inhabitants of San Cristobal. I had a little rain when I arrived, scattered showers but mostly sun for 3 weeks.
Palenque - San Cristobal 10h by night bus for 380 pesos (15 euros) with the company OCC. Even if it means making such a long trip, you might as well do it at night and in the comfort of a big bus. So we thought we would get some sleep. What optimism! mouahaha. This was without counting on the 3 immigration controls in 3 hours and an army check. And you can still pretend to sleep, no worries, they stroke your arm to wake you up. Sometimes with somewhat improbable exchanges like this charming gentleman dressed in green (the army) who wakes me up at 2am. Asleep, I open my eyes. He points to my neighbor with a nod. I do not understand. Another nod from him, specifying "juntos"? What can make him believe that my neighbor weighing at least 120 kilos is traveling with me ??? I shake my head. He points to a white man 2 rows down. Me: no of the head. Him: Spanish? Me: no Francesa. And he leaves ... Well ? Astonishing! Here is control🤔🙄😂
Anecdote
Our bus therefore arrives at the terminal. Estelle and I observe our new environment from behind the window with this questioning that can be read on our faces: but why are they all wearing sweaters and jackets? As soon as we are outside, the response is felt. It's about 12 degrees celsius. Yes ! The city is 2120 m above sea level. Should we still know it !
Suddenly, the same questions appear on the faces of the locals: but why are they only wearing shorts and a T-shirt?
You will say to yourself: but they weren't documented before coming? The answer is: “absolutely not” haha.
We go to have breakfast before separating to our respective accommodation. And yes ! Our journey together ends here. Estelle wants to stay only 2-3 days, the time to do some excursions around while I want to stay at least 2 weeks. In any case, as good independents as we are, each one needs to find her space. I would like to point out that for 2 girls who did not know each other recently, we lived 2 full weeks H24 together. Well done ! 95% of the time, we agreed on everything, had the same desires at the same time. We never felt the age difference. Side delirium, we had a good laugh. Our assessment: very good experience. Others have not gone through their journey in the same way because we learn that Jules and Jérémy have separated. Their friendship will not have withstood a constant duo. The journey is sometimes straining. In any case, thank you Estelle for these beautiful moments 😘
Considered by many to be the cultural capital of Chiapas, perched at 2120 m altitude, San Cristobal is a city located in the state of Chiapas. It is one of the first cities built in mainland America and one of the prettiest colonial cities in Mexico.
Between its churches, its squares, its cobbled streets and hidden patios, this city also offers an art of living, a bohemian side where it is good to stroll. Here, time stands still.
We meet there a dense indigenous population where traditions are still in place. What a joy to be in contact with this ancestral culture !
Located at 2 hours drive from San Christobal, I book the visit of El Chiflon via an agency (there are several ones in the city center) which brings it together with the lakes of Montebello. All for 350 pesos (14 euros). Perfect ! Discussion on the phone with Anya who, learning what I have planned to do the next day, decides to come with me. Great !
El Chiflon is a natural site which shelters a chain of 5 waterfalls powered by the San Vicente river. The highest of the waterfalls, Velo de Novia, is of 120 meters.The others are El Suspiro (25m), Ala de Angel (30m), Arcoiris (53m) and Quinceañera (60m). They follow one another along a path of approximately 1,260 km, rather easy despite the many steps to climb.
On site, you will also find 2 zip lines of 400 and 600 m in length to be done for 300 pesos.
Along the river there are natural pools surrounded by extensive vegetation. The whole is magnificent. With Anya, we go through waterfalls amazed by the beauty of the place. The tour could end there that we would still be happy so much this site has filled us. Frankly, we could have spent the day there without a problem.
Note: the water turns blue during the dry season (October to April). Imagine !
Tour price: 350 pesos (one day)
Sumidero Canyon, located 2 hours from San Cristobal de Las Casas, is one of the 67 national parks of Mexicoand a federal reserve where a large number of endemic species live. It is a large space that covers 21,789 hectares.It formed about 35 million years and is today one of the natural wonders of ChiapasThrough this canyon, the Grijalva river meanders, transforming this place into a unique site with gigantic walls and cliffs that rise up to 1 kilometer high. You will see all kinds of birds, crocodiles, spider monkeys, so called because of the length of their fingers ...
2 possibilities to visit it: take a boat trip (or rent a canoe) and walk along the viewpoints. They are two radically different experiences because they offer 2 completely opposite perspectives. The tour I booked includes both; what I advise you. The spectacle is impressive. The view is spectacular, there are no other words. With Kim, we have a great time. We spend a magical day together; how I'm laughing at with her.
We are then disembarked at the village Chiapa de Corzo where we go to eat with a group of Mexicans that we met. Locals indicate to us a nice restaurant in the center. A visit to the very small town follows. Well, not much to say about it. And back to San Cristobal. Top day ! I am fulfilled.
We continue with the Lago Internacional, the only lake shared with Guatemala, hence its name. It is divided by buoys; half belong to Mexico and the other half to Guatemala. To get to Lago Internacional, you have to cross a long wooden bridge. As this is a tourist activity, there is no border control. Oh the surprise! This one, I did not expect it. Smiling from ear to ear, I hasten to set foot in Guatemala. Here I am, wandering along the street lined with peddlers of all kinds. I turn right into an alley where there is no one there except this young Guatemalan who makes coffee in old pots on a barbecue. For the symbolism, I tell myself what better way than to drink a good coffee accompanied by a specialty to nibble on this new territory. I love.
Me and my little belly filled with my Guatemalan snack go to the last named Tziscao, attached in part to Lake International. The pier on this stretch is also amazing.
The Montebello Lagunas National Park is a territory of 6022 hectares rated Biosphere reserve by UNESCO in 2009. It officially contains 59 lakes but only 10 of them are accessible to the public. 5 are administered by the government as part of the national park and 5 are managed by local ejidatarios.
On the program, visit of five lakes which represent 5 interconnecting lakes offering a panorama of different shades of blue and green. The view is simply splendid. Possibility to sleep on site in a rustic shed.
Then the visit of lac Pojol where wooden rafts led by the locals (150 pesos / pers) brought us to theOrchideas Island located in the center of it. Swimming is allowed, some will jump into the water. I am amazed by the color of the crystal clear water: this lake has sublime shades of colors, an impressive mix of indigo blue, turquoise and emerald green. The whole is relaxing, pleasant and leads to meditation. This site is surprisingly reminiscent of Canada. It's hard to expect this kind of scenery in Mexico. Click on a photo to start the slideshow
Horse riding tour booked in an agency in San Cristobal for 150 pesos (6 euros).
Located at 10km from San Cristobal de las Casas, this village brings together many communities Tzotziles (maya) with unique rituals and traditions. They form one of the main indigenous groups in the country whose members are easily recognized by their traditional woolen clothing. What makes this village so unique is that here the police do not intervene, it is the community that imposes its own laws and very strictly.
San Juan Bautista Church caused a lot of talk about her across the country. A whole mystery surrounds it and spurs the imagination. So I have to go see what's going on there. As a visitor it is very important to comply with the rules. It is strictly forbidden to take pictures or film inside the church. As I walk inside, I can tell you that I am not disappointed. There is a surprising religious syncretism between Catholic elements and Mayan beliefs. Large hangings descend from the ceiling drawn on each side. Hundreds of lighted candles are placed on the ground and on the altars in front of the saints (locked in wooden boxes with a glass in front). There are no benches, the ground is covered with pine needles, coca cola and blood. Small groups kneel, chant and sing songs in the Mayan language in the presence of a shaman. These rituals, mainly for healing or for maintaining good health, are often accompanied by chicken sacrifices.
I let myself be absorbed by this very special atmosphere. I sit down in meditation posture. When I suddenly hear right behind me an old man singing in Mayan. His ritual begins. Wow ! A singular and overwhelming experience.
Explanations:
The cemetery of San Juan Chamula, located opposite an abandoned church, is also a peculiar place. The graves do not have tombstones, but colored cross which indicate who the deceased was: white for a child, green for an adult, black for an elderly person.
The temazcal is a very common ceremony among the Mayans during which the participants purify themselves in a kind of earthen igloo called the temazcalli (house of hot stones in Mayan), the interior of which is heated with steam. ”. It was formerly used to purify the body and the spirit, to cure certain diseases, to increase the vitality of the warriors, or during the childbirth of the women. It is still used today in Mexico and even more so in Chiapas where the indigenous population is very high. The temazcal ceremony is loaded with meaning, spirituality and ancient beliefs that dictate every step and process. This millennial practice takes place following 4 “doors” through which the body heals: physical, emotional, mental, and spiritual. This relatively long ritual (approximately 1h30) also includes prayers directed to the great creator. We also find the 4 primary elements in the temazcal, in relation to the 4 doors: water, earth, fire and air.
I have breakfast on a terrace when I meet Kim, south african in the forties who gave up everything (like me). She lived in Brighton in England (like me) where she stored, in a storage unit, the few things kept from her former life (almost in the same place as me). Funny, dynamic, energetic, she now travels (like me) with 1 big backpack (Oh not like me).🤣
The current flows extremely well between us. No sooner had we met that we both left to book a tour for the Sumidero Canyon. We will only have a little time together because a few days later, she has to leave for Puerto Escondido. But we are determined to stay in touch; which is the case at the time of this writing. A friendship that will last, for sure.
I meetAnya during the horseback ride in San Juan Chamula. Ukrainian living in Canada for many years she has been visiting her daughter and 15-year-old granddaughter who recently moved to Chiapas. A visual arts teacher, Anya is above all an artist. She has a creativity that I really like: http://linktr.ee/anyasart. She will join me to visit the El Chiflon Waterfall and the Montebello Lakes. Thank you Anya for these good times spent together.
Throughout my trip, Mexicans had told me about this famous ceremony. They told me that I should not look for it, it would come to me. I then followed their advice. With Kali, a young English girl who stays at my hostel, we broach the subject of temazcal. Neither one nor two, she comes the next day knocking on my door, telling me that she had met an Englishman who was going there the following day. I tell myself that this is it: my turn has arrived. Mattia therefore takes me out of town with him to live this experience.
My first look at Carlos, the shaman, makes me think that I am in good hands. My instinct gives me the green light. We are 6, small group, this is great !
1st step/ The ceremony begins in the garden around a circle, the interior of which contains offerings. Each of us, standing, we undergo the ritual of the shaman with alcohol, eggs and smoke of all kinds. It starts off strong for me, when I was doing really well, I suddenly found myself crying like an 8 year old girl and wanting to put my stomach on the lawn. Another participant will have the same reaction as me. Phew! I feel less alone. At the same time, I don't feel any judgment from the other 5. Here we are a whole.
2nd step/ We enter inside the temazcal to begin the ritual of the 4 doors. I feel vibrations in my forearms and legs, to such an degree that I have to go out to relieve the pain. I cannot stand up. It is therefore crawling (having no allure) that I regain the exterior completely soaked in sweat (a wet rat), snot on the nose. Hmmm! Gorgeous. At this moment, an earthworm would have more mouth than me. So here I am on all fours in the garden, scrubbing the lawn as Carlos tells me. The idea is to return the vibrations in my limbs to the earth. Lull. We return to the temazcal to finish the ceremony.
3rd step/ Out of the temazcal, we put our clothes back on and end with a last prayer to the gods. The entire ceremony will have lasted 3 hours.
The following: 24 hours later, I will have vomiting and diarrhea all night long. I literally emptied myself. Then I had fever and severe pain in my back. Carlos will come back and give me a Reiki and a massage. Overall, I'll be bedridden for 5 days.
Assessment: j’ai vécu une des expériences les plus fortes de ma vie. J’en suis ressortie guérie. J’ai posé là bas un traumatisme de l’enfance enfermé dans une boite à l’intérieur de moi même depuis tout ce temps (porte ouverte par l’autre chaman à Palenque, lire l’article). Aujourd’hui, je me sens différente, plus légère, plus forte, plus entière. Le temazcal s’associe à l’image de la renaissance. Pour ma part, c’est le cas.
As a good old Frenchwoman that I am, eating well is fundamental. So hang in there, we find absolutely Everything. I have little hearts in my eyes on every street corner😍
Excellent coffee in Carajillo Café and El Tostador. Moreover, many shops roast their coffee on site. You then have the choice between several grain varieties displayed in the window. You want it ground, no worries, they do it and pack it. Turnkey for an attractive price.
Super chocolate in Cacao Nativa or Jangala, for which I have a soft spot. The art of chocolate drink. You can choose the percentage of cocoa (up to 100%) added to water or milk. Yesiiiii.
French pastries at Ohlala!Tested and approved😁
Bakeries extras. My choice is on Roots. Their pastries are really good. Ahhh croissants in the morning, too good !
Quality restaurants such as Cocoliche, 500 noches, Pachamama, Maho …
Let's talk little, talk well, talk efficient, talk Chee….Se. A fondue at ” La Petite Fondue” or a raclette at “Restaurante l’Eden”. You believe in it ? I never thought I would find it perched on my mountain in the middle of Chiapas.
You will even find a charcuterie, yes yes, wine cellars and bars specializing in the field.
To this are added the specialties of Chiapas which are:
You say to yourself but my word, she only ate. Well, yeah ! ahaha. I lost a lot of weight gorging myself on fish, fruit and shrimp so suddenly, I tell myself that this is the opportunity to get it back.
I love this place. In general, Chiapas has a special energy. It just feels good there. And even more in San Cristobal where hovers like a bohemian atmosphere. All complemented by meals to die for. The climate remains a bit chilly for me. The call of heat is heard, the ocean too. My 2 suitcases and I decide to hit the road again but I think we will come back.
Next destination: Puerto Escondido in the state of Oaxaca.
12:30 by night bus with the OCC company for 875 pesos (35 euros).
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3 Comments
Anne-Laure
Superbe le canyon de Sumidero, je n’avais fait que la partie en bateau dans le canyon mais la vue d’en-haut est impressionnante aussi !
Je viens de me noter Lagunas de Montebello sur ma carte google ! C’est vraiment très beau et on ne dirait clairement pas le Mexique ! Des airs de Canada oui XD
Marjorie Guillaume
Montebello était vraiment dépaysant car on n’imagine vraiment pas ça au Mexique.
philippe
Chère aventurière,
Tu m’as séduis avec ta vision de san cristobal. Tes péripéties, tes expériences, tes annecdotes, tes découvertes sont parfaitement décrites et imagées de par tes mots et aussi ces séries de très jolies photos pleines de couleurs, d’espace et de beauté. Continues. Bonne route. Bises