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Basse Californie du Sud – La Paz
John Steinbeck had nicknamed La Paz “the Pearl of Mexico”. The capital of Baja California Sur lives up to its name. It opens up facing a huge bay on the Sea of Cortez, not far from Isla Espiritu Santo, classified by UNESCO as a World Biosphere Reserve. As for the Sea of Cortez, Le Commandant Cousteau described it as “the Aquarium of the World”, as its richness and biodiversity are unique.
At the heart of this rich and generous nature, Baja California is also home to an animal and plant world unique in the world, which the Mexican Government wants to preserve and safeguard in the long term by choosing to develop sustainable tourism. Thus, Baja California proudly and resolutely displays its identity and originality.
The Sea of Cortez, renamed the Gulf of California, is today one of the richest marine ecosystems in the world. It contains, by itself, two thirds of the cetacean species on the planet and has an impressive diversity and density of fish. Contrasting with the marine side, the desert is not to be outdone either, with its very abundant flora and fauna.
TRANSPORT
Cabo San Lucas - La Paz, 3h30 by bus with the ABC company. Ticket purchased online for 330 pesos (13 euros). Nice ride in an air-conditioned bus with only about fifteen people in it. I have my eyes everywhere. The scenery is crazy! A cactus desert stretches as far as the eye can see, hilly and punctuated by countless oases. Amazing these huge palm trees and lush vegetation suddenly appearing in the middle of nothing! A delight, I am in heaven. Fun fact: Immigration is posted along the Highway. Like other vehicles, they control the bus. 1st time this happens to me. I have my passport and my entry into the country with me. Fortunately! Friendly, courteous, the agent is proud to exchange a few words in French with me. I love. I am in order so all is well. Unfortunately not all of us, 2 foreigners have to collect their things and get off the bus. I feel sorry for them. The driver makes sure that we are all well before we hit the road again. What kindness! Everything is ok, we are back on the road.
Housing
- Pension Baja Paradise -
Réservée sur Booking, chambre individuelle à la Pension Baja Paradise. Très bien noté et idéalement situé pour visiter la ville. Il est visiblement souvent complet. J’ai pris la dernière chambre libre: minuscule, sans toilettes et sans salle de bain mais j’y suis super bien au point que je prolongerai mon séjour.
Pleasant, quiet and very clean establishment which offers several common areas: a dining area, a kitchen, a living room, a smoking area, a relaxation area on the roof terrace. The staff are lovely and helpful. The outbuildings: they are seldom used because most of the rooms are fully equipped. They are very regularly cleaned.
Note, Airbnb posted a price 10% more expensive than Booking for exactly the same room on the same dates.
Strengths of the establishment
- Cheap
- Excellent location
- Laundry service
To visit
La Paz
Authentic city where life is good. The atmosphere is more Mexican and more family-friendly than in Los Cabos. The streets are colorful and wooded. Western restaurants and Mexican bouis-bouis coexist without problem.
The Malecon. Walk on the seaside of 3km where statues appear at regular intervals. One of them is dedicated to Commander Cousteau. The sunset is memorable there.
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Balandra beach
The Mushroom, the symbol of Balandra - Beaches South of La Paz.
A cove of about twenty hectares, Balandra is home to mangroves, lagoon, dunes and large beaches which, depending on the tide, reveal sandbanks or reveal cliffs. One of its main attractions is The Mushroom an extraordinary rock formation which has become a symbol of the region. Recently declared Área Natural Protegida Municipal, Balandra is one of the favorite beaches of the inhabitants of La Paz to spend the weekend. The water is transparent and its location offers excellent views of the Sea of Cortez. We practice snorkeling and diving to appreciate the seabed, a rallying point for pelicans and white herons. The magic happens here.
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Street Art La Paz
In 2017, La Paz received around twenty artists, as part of the project Ciudad Mural.Thus, 27 new murals have appeared in the center of the city, with elements of the local culture… and they are truly magnificent!
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Tecolote Beach
It is one of the busiest beaches in La Paz. You can practice activities such as jet skiing or diving. Restaurants and bars are also part of the game.
From here you can reach Balandra beach located at 30 min walk up the mountain. You will then discover a surprising setting!
The landscape is unique: between the mountains, the dunes and the white sand, it feels like being transported in a western. It also offers a breathtaking view of the island of Espiritu Santo.
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- Tecolote Baja California
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Island Ispiritu Santo
Protected by UNESCO as a biosphere reserve, the island of Espiritu Santo is an enchantment for biodiversity. Uninhabited, the only creatures that can claim this land as their own are sea lions, rays, dolphins, turtles and, at certain times of the year, gray whales and whale sharks. This desert of more than 9000 hectares is one of the best preserved ecosystems in all of southern California.
Of volcanic origin, the colors it offers, both inside and in the bays, are the result of a sedimentation process that has given, over the centuries, a particular soil formation, where black lava alternates with the pink hues of volcanic ash.
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- Espiritu Santo Baja California
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EXCURSION
Full day boat trips take you to explore this spectacular marine world. Points of sale throughout the Malécon. Price of my ticket 1000 pesos (50 dollars). A bargain because prices can climb up to 1,700 pesos. On the program: we saw many dolphins, some of which were having fun swimming right in front of our boat, turtles, rays, many birds. We went to the tip of the island. Snorkeling (equipment included) to swim with sea lions. Truly impressive! I went there mainly for that even if the time devoted to this activity remains short (20-30 min). You will also see an incredible number of fish of all colors. The island is beautiful and really offers striking colors. Stop for lunch on a beach with translucent water (meal included and excellent). Possibility of snorkeling. Depending on the season, you will also observe gray whales, humpback or blue and / or you can swim with whale sharks.
Encounters
David
My room neighbour at the Pension and my companion of aperitif beer every evening. A 68-year-old retired American, native of San Diego, he gave up everything after living in Tijuana for 5 years. He has been traveling for 1 month in Mexico by bus. He's looking for his new home. Life of the party, endowed with a lively mind, everything is good for a laugh. So far, I'm not bored.
Marie and Tatiana
Two Lyonnais met at the Pension. Marie took a year off and has been traveling for 5 months in Mexico. Tatiana came to join her for a 3 week vacation. As I know the area thanks to Eduardo, I took them around the beaches between Tecolote and Balandra. Day rich in landscapes and swimming. Hitch-hiking back in a pick up. The dream !
Anecdote
With the girls, we set ourselves the challenge of hitch-hiking and, if possible, a pick up hahaha. Without wanting to, the most strategic place was right in front of the environmental police, posted there to block Balandra's entrance in the evening. Wishing to help us, the police began to bellow into their microphone to stop the vehicles so that they could collect us. Too funny !
Bars & Restos
Here are some addresses on which I had a crush
Maria California
- La Paz
Mexican restaurant at 2 minutes walk from the hostel. I love their decor and their terrace shaded by vegetation. Everything is fresh and good for a reasonable price. Their specialty: lechero coffee. To see because they pour the hot oriental milk right in front of you. Tasty !
Nota bene: open Wednesday to Monday from 7:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
DULCE ROMERO
- La Paz
Excellent quality organic bakery & restaurant. Everything is fresh, homemade and delicious. A card with a lot of choice. A place that is always full. Pure happiness!
MARISCOS BISMARKCITO
- La Paz
I recommend the cocktails: creamy pina colada, well-loaded margarita… On the other hand, I have not tried the dishes.
Assessment
A stay that I will have finally extended because I feel really good there. For a capital, La Paz displays a rather astonishing quality of life and has an immeasurable number of bars and restaurants of very good quality. I made a lot of meetings there, often for short periods of time because many are just passing through. I think I will be back.
But for the moment, I intend to continue my journey along the peninsula.
Direction Loreto.
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3 Comments
Anne-Laure
Ah bah ça donne sacrément envie d’y aller ! La plage de sable blanc, l’eau turquoise, les animaux et la bonne nourriture. Par contre, le côté désert me dit que cela doit bien cogner niveau soleil ?! 😅
Marjorie Guillaume
N’oublie pas la crème solaire 😂
Anne-Laure
ah oui ! Surtout que je peux vite prendre des coups de soleil…