Basse Californie du Sud – Loreto a La Paz

Baja California Sur - Loreto to La Paz

June 5, 2021

Mexico

Ahhhh I have arrived !

Travel by the window in a noisy, crowded bus. Hmmm how to say? it's nice to arrive at destination.

TRANSPORT

La Paz - Loreto, 5h30 by bus with the Aguila company. Ticket purchased online for 410 pesos (17 euros). Journey in a bus that is not air conditioned but rather refrigerated. I have the impression of being a foodstuff that must be preserved. It is always said that the cold preserves. If that is the goal, then yes this bus driver is doing his best hahaha. If the trip started quietly with about twenty people, I can tell you that it quickly filled up. It's not complicated, at this rate, I'm going to end up on someone's knees mouahaha. I was persuaded to go in the middle of nowhere, well yes, it is the case but not in the middle of no one. The panorama is surprising, overall I would say greener, flat at the start then hilly or even mountainous towards Loreto. Ever-changing vegetation, cactus forests and then nothing, bushes and shrubs growing in green. It's fascinating ! As usual, I don't want to miss anything so I stick my nose to the window with wide eyes, a smile on my lips. My traveling neighbor must take me for an idiot. With each new landscape, I unsheath my phone to take pictures. I imagine the same scene in a bus in France next to a tourist taking a picture of a cow, an apple tree, a house ... Frankly, the result is laughable because the road is somewhat bumpy, It looks like Rain Man on vacation . Overall it looks like this (see photos). This charming journey takes place in a Mexican atmosphere; more clearly animated not to say noisy (it is because I love them these Mexicans). A Mexican girl right behind me is watching a movie or a soap opera on her phone without headphones, sound blaring. Interesting concept! There is arguably a shortage of headphones in the country as it is commonplace to share the sound of its Mexican neighbors. Some judgments ask me questions. 1 person goes down from time to time ... but then there is absolutely nothing. I can look around, squirming in all directions, not the slightest hut on the horizon. But where can these people go ??? ... Reflection .... Reflection ... No I don't have the answer. You will remain like me with this questioning. I feel less alone like that hahaha.

Housing

- Los Ceruelos -

Little house distributing 2 studio rooms, booked on Airbnb.

Great welcome from Patricia and her husband. They stay in the house opposite. The room is true to the announcement.

2 downsides:

- a little out of the way but they lend bikes

- works 50 m from the room start at 7:30 in the morning. A concrete mixer older than me imitates a jackhammer, all accompanied by charming Mexican music. Not a problem if you don't want to hang around in bed.

Strengths of the establishment

The price (20 euros / night)
The bedroom has a kitchenette
A washing machine probably from the 1950s, I had never used one or even seen one before. It works very well. I loved it.
2 bicycles are available free of charge, including a bicycle with its small basket at the front, also from the 1950s. You have to pedal backwards to brake. A real crush.

Loreto

Loreto is an oasis in the middle of a desert of cacti. The city was founded in 1697 by Jesuit missionaries, who found there a source of fresh water. It is a charming town where you can admire the mission Nuestra Señora de Loreto. The atmosphere is peaceful. The beaches are gray sands.

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: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

Loreto and its seaside

I loved strolling by the sea. I have often extended the walks. You are serene, only the birds keep you company. The landscape surprises at every turn. Time stands still, nothing matters anymore.

Click on a photo to start the slideshow

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

: Loreto Baja California

Who do I stumble upon during one of my walks? I'll give it to you in a thousand ... My 2 Lyonnaises: Marie and Tatiana. The 2 companions live a somewhat original adventure. They had left La Paz towards Sin Quintin in order to perform a parachute jump. Marie had made this purchase as a birthday present to her girlfriend but ended up with a jump to Timbuktu. Resigned but above all ultra motivated, the 2 girls traveled the 1000 km by bus (17 hours). The joke: when they get there, the jump will be canceled. Suddenly, they retraced the path in the opposite direction and chose Loreto to rest for a few days. Unbelievable !

To visit

San Javier Mission

From Loreto to San Francisco Javier, the landscapes are superb: you are in the Sierra de la Giganta. San Javier a former Spanish Mission, (re) built in 1744.

If you continue your journey to the north of Baja California Sur, you can visit:

For my part, I decide to turn around towards La Paz. The ratio of visits / km to go north is not interesting for me. In addition, the hotel supply is extremely low and expensive. With a van, I would undoubtedly have continued on the road… Goodbye my beautiful and old bicycle, I will miss you.

TRANSPORT

Loreto - La Paz, 5h30 by bus with the Aguila company. Ticket bought at the station for 410 pesos (17 euros). Nice trip because few people. Here I am again stucked to the window to take pictures; I can't help myself, big nonsense! ahaha (see below). They play a French film (Give me wings) dubbed in Spanish. The result on our national Jean -Paul Rouve is hilarious! mouahaha. I noticed that the buses also deliver the parcels to the various towns along their road. Convenient.

Housing

- Casa Tuscany -

Formerly on Airbnb, now for sale, this superb hacienda includes several rooms and apartments.

I had met, 1 day before my leaving from La Paz, Joanne, an Australian. She does house-sitting in a hacienda-style residence, near the seaside. Joanne had offered me a room in case I came back. She had flair. For a low price, I find myself ideally located in the city in a superbly colored room with private bathroom. Zen on the program, because I am tired.

The best

The rooms are a very good standard.
Washing machine available
My room, isolated from the rest, overlooks the interior courtyard. It is calm, pleasant, well maintained.
Joanne cocoone me with smoothies, excellent Chai Tea entirely homemade, and balanced snacks.

Encounters

Joanne, australienne, en voyage depuis 2 ans avec son partenaire Anthony. Ancienne prof de yoga et ancienne femme d’affaires, elle a pris un virage à 360 degrés il y a quelques années. Dotée d’un doctorat en métaphysique, elle consulte à distance et en présentiel https://www.docjo.online/ Aujourd’hui, méditation et conscience de soi sont les maitres mots de son quotidien. Nos discussions sont enrichissantes. Elle m’apportera beaucoup sur différents plans: personnel, intellectuel et spirituel. Une très belle rencontre.

And who do we find in this photo? my Eduardo ahaha… but also Shawn et Pacome. For the weekend in La Paz with his group of friends, he called me to join them. Restaurant and beach on the program, good times with this beautiful skewer. I am spoiled.

La Paz Part II

If you have just joined this blog, I invite you to read the other article dedicated to La Paz. You will find there all the information about this city, in particular the visits to do.

For my loyal readers, well it's always the same. The weather is fine, very hot (38 °C in the afternoons). Suddenly, we live in the morning and in the evening. Life is a long, calm river here.

During my walks, I discovered new murals and new restaurants. The sunsets are always so wonderful.

To know: La Paz operates on 100% solar + storage.

Anecdote: my path crossed the one of a Mexican woman who proudly wore a supposedly French T-shirt on which was written “c'est la vis”. Yes I had a laugh. No that's not nice haha. To explain: it supposed to be written "c'est la vie" which means, "This is life". "C'est la vis" means "this is screw".

Click on a photo to start the slideshow

A special mention, however, for the sidewalks in La Paz. They are not lacking in creativity 😂. Everyone created what they needed at their doorstep. The overall view remains surprising 🤣 Personally, I prefer to walk on the road, it is safer.

Advice: avoid coming home drunk.

Nice restaurants

CAPUCHINO CAFE

Vegetarian restaurant which offers very good falafels, platters composed of the different flavors that the house offers, huge burgers. On the menu, lemonades with a secret recipe which are fruits mixed with we do not know what but it is delicious !

The service is top and the price correct. Small restaurant which quickly becomes a habit.

MARISCOS EL TORO GUERO

Restaurant frequented mainly by locals. Typical Mexican place: large open space with many canteen-style tables. Here, no fuss, no decoration, but it's super efficient. Here is the seafood soup that I took: very filling, tasty and really inexpensive (6 euros). Just a dream. Great welcome, friendly service, relaxed atmosphere. A real favorite❣️

BUZOS

Good value for money. Great welcome, beautiful decor, restaurant on the seafront with a small terrace. An excellent ceviche!

Assessment

I spent an amazing 1.5 months in Southern Baja California, 6 weeks without a single drop of rain. I have seen extraordinary landscapes, met a multitude of people, seen an immeasurable number of animals. This part of the globe is still relatively unknown. So, it is little exploited and remains quite desert. Very safe, I walked around in the 4 corners without any problem. Mexicans are cheerful, helpful and particularly welcoming; even more towards the French they love. For lovers of peace and nature, this region of the globe offers hundreds of kilometers of deserted beaches. For kite and surf enthusiasts, La Ventana is the place to be. For diving and snorkelling enthusiasts, the Sea of Cortez is the aquarium of the world. As for the fiestas fan, Cabo San Lucas is the ideal place.

For my part, I decide to change horizon and explore more this Mexico so surprising and so beautiful. Over the course of my meetings, I have collected a whole bunch of names of places to visit. I will not do northern Baja California because the visit to do (Tijuana and Ensenada) is completely to the north and does not convince me of the visits / kilometers ratio.

Then, I fly to Cancun, the ideal base to cross the Yucatan and continue to the rest of Mexico.