Tikal and Yaxha – Guatemala

December 17, 2021

Guatemala

COVID

It's always the same thing. When we move away from the cities to find nature, the masks disappear.

WEATHER

This region offers a tropical climate. Compared to winter, summers have much more rain. September is the rainiest month and February the driest. The average annual temperature in Flores is 25.5°C. The best time to visit is from November to May.

TRANSPORTS

Rio Dulce - Santa Elena 5 hours by traditional bus with the Maya de Oro company for 150 qtz (17 euros). For the record, most travelers all follow the same route. From Antigua, they rush to Semuc Champey before moving on to Tikal. For my part, I am not interested in this place since I previously visited the Huasteca Potosina in Mexico, which is in the same genre but 10 times bigger and 10 times better. So, I made the choice to go directly to Rio Dulce whose reputation promises beautiful days in paradise. Located at the crossroads of several destinations, this small town offers me the bonus of going north, visiting Tikal if the courage takes me. I spend 3 days in Rio Dulce (I will tell you about it in the next article because, being a strategic geographical point, I should pass by there soon), I recharged my batteries, let's go to Tikal... I leave my mangrove to find the city where I jump in a classic bus. The first since I am in Guatemala because until then, I mostly traveled by chicken bus. I find the comfort of a real bus. The journey passes quickly. Arrival at the Santa Elena terminal, I take a tuk tuk for 20 qtz (2.30 euros) to do the remaining 2kms that lead to Flores.

Flores, city on which I will not dwell

Tourists describe you the island of Flores as a colorful and pleasant city from which you can go to visit Tikal. If this is true for visits, it is less so for the rest. For information, the city is divided into 3 parts. It is on either side of the lake with a peninsula in the middle; the whole thing is called Flores. The bus takes you to the terminal located in the 1st part. Nothing special to see there. Comes the peninsula where tourists and only tourists are concentrated. The locals will explain to me that they have not lived there for a long time and moreover are amused by the enthusiasm of tourists for this place, which has long since become a ghost town. You will therefore naturally think that it is due to the colorful side claimed at all costs. Lets go to see ! Well still not. A few colors certainly but nothing exciting overall. The island can be visited in 1 hour by dragging the leg. Remains the 3rd part located opposite. I also chose my hotel there, telling myself that you can find peace there with a beautiful panorama. Absolutely not ! Every evening, there is a parade of restaurant boats trying to occupy their bored tourists by strolling them in circles to deafening music to create a festive atmosphere. Result: the only thing that could create a charm on this side is ruined by these floating shits with garish lights and questionable musical tastes. 2 nights, 1 day, I fled. Up to you … I also chose my hotel there, telling myself that you can find peace there with a beautiful panorama. Absolutely not ! Every evening, there is a parade of restaurant boats trying to occupy their busy tourists by strolling them in circles to deafening music to create a festive atmosphere. Result: the only thing that could create a charm on this side is ruined by these floating shits with garish lights and questionable musical tastes. 2 nights, 1 day, I fled. Up to you … I also chose my hotel there, telling myself that you can find peace there with a beautiful panorama. Absolutely not ! Every evening, there is a parade of restaurant boats trying to occupy their busy tourists by strolling them in circles to deafening music to create a festive atmosphere. Result: the only thing that could create a charm on this side is ruined by these floating shits with garish lights and questionable musical tastes. 2 nights, 1 day, I fled. Up to you … the only thing that could create a charm on this side is ruined by these floating shits with garish lights and questionable musical tastes. 2 nights, 1 day, I fled. Up to you … the only thing that could create a charm on this side is ruined by these floating shits with garish lights and questionable musical tastes. 2 nights, 1 day, I ran away. Up to you …

I decide to migrate north of Lake Peten, closer to Tikal, on the jungle side, where I spotted a cheap homestay rental. What brings me to the village El Remate.

TRANSPORTS

Flores-El Remate, 30 qtz (3.50 euros) in collectivo. I took it at the terminal but obviously they stop for about fifteen minutes at the local market. Many locals rush in, the van is quickly full. During the wait, we are entitled as usual to the many merchants, women and children, who get into the vehicle to sell you their products, which essentially boil down to fried bananas, sodas and crisps. I make the trip for 45 mins, surrounded by all these beautiful people. I am the only foreigner, to their delight because we are always well received and accepted. They love to ask us questions, to chat, they are curious, it is mutual. Besides, the Frenchwoman intrigues the septuagenarian behind me a little too much, who came closer behind me to order to smell my hair 😂 Mouai! I choose not to say anything. If the grandpa is happy with that, good, so be it ! Especially since I am almost there. The van drops me off at the roadside in El Remate, at the crossroads that leads to the edge of the lake. Barely deposited, I look around me. Hum! I like what this place gives off, I am already smiling. I finish the journey on foot to my new home.

TOP 5

Also to do

What to do in El Remate?

El Remate

East of Lake Peten Itza, between Flores and Tikalthere is the village El Remate. This quiet town offers an exceptional panorama. Located on the edge of the jungle, people come here for its calm and its reception facilities immersed in nature, on the edge of the lake.

I have a crush on this place so peaceful and so authentic. My room is in the middle of the vegetation. The howler monkeys keep me company, their cries come to distract the surrounding tranquility. Birdsong wakes me up every morning. It is raining heavily, in torrents. I am stuck in my casa watching stock movies on my computer because the internet connection is weak in bad weather. I take advantage of moments of calm to walk along the lake. What we are good! I found a shop in the village that sells chocolate. Some dream in bar! O miraculous! There is an Italian restaurant 2 steps away that makes homemade lasagna to die for. A little higher, there is a French restaurant. Overall, we find everything. It is simple, it is green (with what it falls, the reverse would be surprising😂), it is calm, it is beautiful and you do not miss anything. That is the demand of the people ? I regularly come across chickens, roosters, ducks, turkeys, pigs on my way because here, everyone leads their own life, everyone is free. I love ! I thus wait 3 days, to live according to the weather (and not the wind). Then one morning the sun rises. Ahhhh here is a good thing, let's go to Tikal !

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: El Remate Guatemala

: El Remate Guatemala

: El Remate Guatemala

: El Remate Guatemala

: El Remate Guatemala

: El Remate Guatemala

: El Remate Guatemala

: El Remate Guatemala

: El Remate Guatemala

: El Remate Guatemala

: El Remate Guatemala

Did you know ?

The Peten region and the Maya forest are home to an impressive diversity of flora and fauna in its various terrestrial and freshwater habitats. More than 2000 higher plants, including 200 species of trees, have been inventoried. Palm trees, epiphytes, orchids and bromeliads abound in the different types of forests. Among the 100 mammals are more than 60 species of bats, five species of felines - Jaguar, Puma, Ocelot, Margay and Jaguarondi - as well as the mantled howler monkey and many endangered species such as the Yucatan spider monkey. and Baird's tapir. The 330 bird species recorded include the ocellated turkey, crested eagle and ornate eagle, which are Near Threatened, as well as the greater curmudgeon which is vulnerable. Among the 100 endangered reptiles, there are the Central American river turtle, Morelet's crocodile and 38 species of snakes. In addition to 25 known species of amphibians, there is a remarkable fish fauna and a great diversity of invertebrates. This region is also known for wild varieties of several important agricultural plants.

To visit

TIKAL

Entrance 150 Qtz . Allow at least 4 hours for the visit. Many travel agencies offer the shuttle trip for 80 qtz.

Sunrise or sunset 100 Qtz extra.

I strongly advise you to buy your tickets online, otherwise you will find yourself like me, queuing for 45 minutes despite the few people in the line. Each ticket is nominative (proof of identity in support) and printed with an old machine. Suffice to say that it takes Hera's life.

In the heart of the jungle of northern Guatemala, in lush vegetation, Tikal is one of the largest archaeological sites and urban centers of the pre-Columbian Maya civilization. Tikal was the capital of a conquering state, which was one of the most powerful kingdoms of the ancient Maya.^. This city reached its peak between 200 and 900 of our time. Its center extends over an area of 400 ha. It includes the main monuments and architectural elements: palaces, temples, ceremonial platforms, residences, ball courts, terraces, roads, public squares which are accessed by ramps. Many of the existing monuments have preserved decorated surfaces, stone carvings and wall paintings with hieroglyphic inscriptions, which illustrate the city's dynastic history and its relationship to urban centers as far afield as Teotihuacan and Calakmul in Mexico. A larger area of key archaeological importance, approximately 1,200 ha, covers residential areas and historic water reservoirs, now known as “aguadas”. This vast peripheral expanse has more than 25 associated secondary sites, which served for protection purposes and as checkpoints for trade routes. In 1979, it was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Tikal National Park contains unique elements that illustrate the historical, mythical and biographical data of the dynastic history of Tikal. These testimonies reflect the life of 33 leaders who ruled over a vast territory of the ancient Maya world.

Tikal National Park is an outstanding example of Maya human art and genius. The richness of its architectural and artistic expressions also presents important symbolic elements, such as the concept of pyramids representing mountains that define a universe where human beings coexisted with their environment. It is also an exceptional place for its cosmological connotations and it is considered that it was used as a stage for theatrical performances.

I went up to this region with the aim of visiting this majestic site which is so much talked about. Many travel agencies offer their services but I am not a big fan of herding. I like to lead my life on my side, to have my own experiences. So I decide to go there on my own. So I wait for the bus on the main road while sipping a coffee. An hour passes and nothing. Let's go for hitchhiking ! 5 minutes I hold out my thumb on the side of the road when Edwin stops with his motorbike. He offers to drop me off halfway where his village is. Military, on vacation for 2 weeks, he finally offers, after a short discussion, to come with me. Great ! So I will spend the day with him visiting the site in all directions. I am fascinated by this place which, in my opinion, is the most beautiful of all the ruins I have visited so far. Its beauty exceeds Palenque https://fancymyworld.com/chiapas-palenque or Calakmul https://fancymyworld.com/peninsule-du-yucatan-calakmul which are nevertheless unavoidable in the remains to be seen. I really do not regret this detour in my road trip. I welcome this decision. If you hesitate, I invite you to come, I promise you that you will not regret it. The mysticism of this place is real, its beauty even more so. Edwin is really pleasant company, extremely kind. End of the day, we leave, he drops me off at my village. Lovely! As we get on well, he offers me to visit Yaxha with him the next day. I approve of course ! Decidedly, my trip is always full of surprises.

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: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

: Tikal Guatemala

YAXHA

As planned, Edwin picks me up at my place (yes, that's how I feel here). 1 hour of motorcycle later, part of which on a somewhat bumpy road, it is with joy that we arrive on the scene, the buttocks somewhat bruised 😂. Located in the middle of the jungle, this lesser-known site is already making waves in the world of travellers.

Entrance 80 Qtz, open daily from 6:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.

Yaxha is a Mayan archaeological site located on the shores of Lake Yaxja, in the Peten to Guatemala, nestled in the heart of a sumptuous national park. Much less known than its rival Tikal, it is nevertheless worth a detour. The ruins of this ancient Mayan city are hidden under dense and luxuriant vegetation; which largely contributes to its charm. In particular, you will have the opportunity to meet different species of monkeys, coatis, snakes, parrots, colorful birds of the quetzal family and sometimes even superb toucans.

Yaxha is one of the few Mayan cities that still retains its original name, which means "green water" Lagoons are numerous in this region of Peten and were undoubtedly used to supply the Mayas with fresh water.

This large site has more than 500 structures, including forty stelae, thirteen altars, nine temple-pyramids, two ball courts and Sacbeobs that connect the three acropolises. From the top of the pyramids, the panoramic views of the other structures and the forest will leave you with an enchanting memory. The top of Temple 216 offers the best view of the entire site and the lake.

To date, most of the structures are still buried, we can also guess their existence under these mounds scattered throughout the archaeological site. Barely a few temples and constructions have been discovered out of all the buildings that the inhabitants of the city built between 800 BC and 900 AD.

Click on a photo to start the slideshow

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

: Yaxha Guatemala

Did you know ?

A sacbe (also called white path; sacbeob in the plural) is a path built by the Mayas of the Lowlands. Raised about fifty centimeters between two low walls filled with pebbles, it is covered with a limestone mortar to protect it from the weather. Short sacbeob linked temples, plazas and groups of structures within ceremonial centers and cities. Longer sacbeob linked towns together. The Sacbeob networks of Caracol (about 70 km) and Coba are among the best known. Although longs were most likely used for trade and communication between cities, it seems that all sacbeob had religious significance.

Insolite

Little weakness for these road signs😮😁🤣

Housing

Private room in bungalow

Private double room with bathroom located in a bungalow at the bottom of the garden. Booked on Airbnb for 95 Qtz (11 euros) per night. Then negotiated on the spot at 80 Qtz. Pleasant, calm and comfortable, everything blends into the vegetation. The family lives here and runs the La Piazza, restaurant located at the front of the property. Vilma, the mother, is very kind and often available. The dishes she concocts are simple, good and inexpensive. You will see many birds and howler monkeys who sing from time to time. Great experience !

Strength of the establishment

Comfortable room and bedding
Lots of indoor and outdoor space
Hot water
We feel like at home
Excellent value for money
Good wifi
Many animals
Ideally located

Encounter

Let me introduce you to Edwin, a 22-year-old Guatemalan soldier who is also studying. We spent 2 really nice days together. Which shows that, hitchhiking is good!

Assessment

I love this place, this surrounding jungle. The sound of birds and howler monkeys enchant me. What a beautiful region, so peaceful, so relaxing! Everything is beautiful. The locals are nice, happy. They contribute greatly to the positive atmosphere of the area. I wanted a 100% nature experience and that is exactly what I got. Time passes and the 90 days to which I have the right in the zone of the 4 countries begins seriously to reduce. I still have a lot to do. Come on I am moving ! Direction Livingston, my last stop before passing through Honduras.

Next destination: Livingston